Spirited away

By now most of us know we should be eating local produce whenever possible, or at least feeling guilty when we can't. As it happens, there appears to be a way to support a local producer and drown our sorrows at the same time, because every drop of Beefeater gin is produced at its distillery in south London.

At the height of the gin craze in 1743, the capital produced 20 million gallons of gin annually - 14 gallons for every adult resident - and by 1794 90% of the country's gin was produced here. But like our market gardens and urban factories, the stills have moved out or just ground to a halt. Today Beefeater is the only distiller still making London dry gin in the city.

The distillery was established in 1820, and its second owner, James Burrough, took over in 1863. Modern-day mixologists would have to admire his dedication to the cause. During endless experiments, he hit upon a recipe using a new blend of nine botanicals that produced unusually full-bodied flavours. He also started to employ a unique process of steeping the blend in grain alcohol for 24 hours before turning on the still. This recipe and method are used to make Beefeater gin today.

With these bare facts before me, my thirst for knowledge was piqued. At Beefeater HQ (situated south of the Thames since 1958), master distiller Desmond Payne greets me with a Red Snapper, the tasty precursor to the Bloody Mary. "Gin is so much more fun than vodka isn't it?" he observes before taking me on a tour. We see great bins filled with botanicals and I even have a go measuring out and pouring them into the still. Brand-new gin is percolating into a contraption called a spirit safe, and Desmond treats himself to a sample. "Quite nice, actually," he pronounces.

With 40 years' experience in distilling, he is just the man to guide me through a tasting session of six gins. It's just past 10am, and each sample has been watered down. "They're only 20%," I'm told, "so they are... approachable." Desmond explains that unlike vodka, rum or whiskey, all the flavours in gin are introduced in the form of the botanicals. "So it's a sociable drink," he smiles. "It mixes well."

Speaking of which, it's time to talk cocktails. Dan Warner is the distillery's in-house bartender, but his reputation extends far beyond south London. He was named bartender of the year by Theme magazine, and it was a little recipe called the Waterloo Sunset that helped him seal the title.

"Being a Londoner, I love the association with the only major spirit brand still produced in my home city," he says as he teaches me how to measure, stir and shake up a few of his award-winning drinks. His Cosmopolitan - containing gin, orange liqueur, lemon juice and raspberry syrup - isn't so hard to master, but that Waterloo Sunset requires all the skill, strength and patience I've got. I struggle to channel the gin, elderflower cordial, champagne and crème de framboise into a flute, and then Dan shows me his special trick for spearing a raspberry for garnish.

So many drinks before noon conspire to make me philosophical. I reflect that while the Beefeaters continue to guard the Tower of London and the crown jewels - two internationally recognised symbols of the country - I'm comforted to know that Desmond and Dan are just down the river vigilantly protecting the recipe for this great British drink.

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