Restaurant review: The Crooked Well, Camberwell

By Victoria Purcell on July 25th 2011

In recent years it’s been The Dark Horse and Le Petit Parisien; now it’s The Crooked Well. I’m not sure why nothing sticks at this Camberwell venue, but I do hope its current guise is here to stay. The décor, for starters, is spot on. Those with an eye for detail will hone in on the restored cornicing and ceiling roses, the gorgeous Victorian tiling behind the bar and antique lighting, but otherwise it simply looks effortlessly stylish.

But the food is the star of this show. Do try the pork belly with tuna crème fresh – yes, that’s right, tuna crème fresh. It’s superb. It works so well with the thin strips of rolled pork belly, finished with capers, gremolata and crispy pork crackling. My less adventurous friend went for the soup of the day, but was equally rewarded with a zingy tomato gazpacho served with toasted bread and creamy crab pate.

For the mains we selected the poached hake, served with a colour-rich salad of kohlrabi, potatoes, radishes and raspberry oil, and the guinea fowl breast with cauliflower puree, artichokes, grelote onions and sherry. Compliments to the chef indeed – Matt Green-Armytage’s ability to bring together original thinking, a fine balance of flavours and an exciting variety of textures with hearty British classics is surely worthy of awards.

For dessert, my friend indulged in the summer pudding with clotted cream, while I went nuts over the flourless gooseberry and almond cake with elderberry panacotta – wonderfully moist cake, refreshingly sour gooseberries and a lush panacotta topped with popping candy. Fabulous. 

Victoria Purcell

16 Grove Lane SE5 8SY; 020 7252 7798; www.thecrookedwell.com 

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