Marsh realities

These days plenty of Londoners have countryside bolt-holes to satisfy the need to escape. Herne Hill resident Matthew Roberts shuns second home hotspots Devon and Dorset and instead gets on the M4 once a week with his heart (and satnav) set on Wales. But Matthew's getaway is no typical twee cottage - it is in fact a luxury hotel called Hurst House on the Marsh.

Having set up a record label in his teens and run a publishing company in his 20s, Matthew went to Laugharne - former home of Dylan Thomas - in search of a humble weekend home in which to relax and read poetry. Instead he ended up buying a pile of stone structures (many of which lacked amenities such as a roof) in the middle of a farmyard.

The main barn dated to 1595, while the house was built in 1790 and extended under the reign of Victoria. Restoration of the decrepit property would have seemed a far-fetched project to the faint-hearted, but its new owner embraced it with such vision to make the likes of Kevin McCloud proud.

In his music industry days, Matthew had run backstage hospitality for touring bands and later invested in restaurants. With this background in keeping people comfortable and well-fed, he soon got the 1790 dwelling in a luxurious state and began to run it as a small hotel and restaurant.

One frequent guest and fan was Neil Morrissey, star of Men Behaving Badly. The two decided there was no reason that the level of discreetly warm comfort at the Laugharne hotel couldn't find a home in London too. They set out to open a club to rival the Groucho, Century and Soho House - and so Hurst House private members' club in Covent Garden was born.

Although the London club rapidly installed itself in the glamorous panoply of the capital's premier clubs, the pair didn't turn their backs on the country pile. An extension was built to house a fine restaurant, while last year saw the ancient barn enjoy a new lease of life as the first of 18 luxury suites were opened. The news this year is the launch of the remaining suites, as well as a gym, pool and serene spa. A brand-new bijou cinema opened last month, playing host to the world premiere of The Edge of Love, a film about the love affairs of Dylan Thomas starring Sienna Miller and Kiera Knightley.

Hurst House and Hollywood are separated by more than just miles; what's so special about this place that it can lure bright stars to this quiet corner of Wales? The kitchen surely has something to do with it. Meals prepared under chef Scott Davies really are something to write home about. The young sharp-knived Welshman has worked under Gordon, Marco and Gary, and has spent time learning his trade in New York, London and South Asia.

The meat (Carmarthenshire ham, salt marsh lamb, aged Welsh beef) comes from within a 20-mile radius, while divine breads (muffins, soda bread, bara brith and myriad tea cakes) are baked on site daily. The menu is rich in the products of the coastal location (Pembrokeshire crab, local salmon and even cockles), and of course the cheeses are as Welsh as you'd hope and expect.

Exquisite breakfasts are a nod to Scott's time spent Stateside, while other meals feature unusual flavours that bear the influence of his exotic Eastern travels. Savoury selections are combined with hints of crystallized ginger, elderflower or cardamom, but the peerless puddings might display strains of pepper or even tobacco. It might sound crazy, but it works. Hearty and traditional - but beautifully done - afternoon tea is a daily institution to engrave into your agenda.

Inside the rooms and gigantic mezzanine suites you'll find all the hallmarks you'd expect of a private members' outfit: multiple Bang and Olufsen systems, Frette linens, Ren bath products, Duravit fittings. The spa is equally well-appointed with exclusive ranges such as Eve Lom, Elemental Herbology and Pankhurst at Dunhill. Interiors are both chic and cosy, and slick design features inject glamour and wit - get ready for red ponyskin upholstery and eight-foot tall Anglepoise lamps.

Outside, the quiet countryside makes you think you've stepped out to the edge of the earth. Being on a marsh, Hurst House gets way more than its fair share of open sky. It's surrounded by sea, which lends a sense of peaceful isolation - stand outside and you can hear the tide growl in. The gulfstream blows in temperate breezes, so it's a privileged position from which to watch the migration of birds. To absorb the unusual microclimate, get a map from reception then ramble to the clifftops and seashore, or take a woodland path into Laugharne, passing fields of sheep and ponies along the way.

The township where Thomas wrote Under Milk Wood is a quirky, spirited place with a castle and narrow lanes to explore. A pilgrimage to the poet's favourite pubs is essential, as is a glimpse of his legendary boathouse solemnly facing the estuary.

Efficient and discreet, but also relaxed and personal, Hurst House is well practiced in organizing adventures. They'll pack you a charming picnic basket and arrange fishing, boating, biking, riding or shooting. And if you need to get to London and back in a hurry, they'll order up a helicopter that reaches Battersea in 52 minutes.

And speaking of London, Matthew even offers a way to soften the blow of returning, something he has a lot of experience of. Guests receive a temporary membership to the club, promising more of the relaxed, chic cosiness that by after a weekend you may find hard to live without.

Marsh realities

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