Interview with Petra Barran: Chocs Away!

By Victoria Purcell on February 7th 2010

Jo Cantello meets Petra Barran, the Brixton-based foodie enjoying the sweet smell of success

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It’s a chilly Monday morning in mid-January and there’s a low hum of activity in Brixton’s Market Row as the trading day begins. I’ve arranged to meet Petra Barran, otherwise known as Choc Star, for coffee at deli-cafe Wild Caper.

When she arrives, it’s much to the delight of Bridget, the cafe’s owner. “What I love about Petra is how she champions the local street-food scene,” she says, giving Petra a big hug. Bridget wants to hold a Madhatter’s Tea Party at the revitalised Brixton Village Market and is keen for Petra to help. “It’s really exciting. You should check it out,” says Petra, 34. “It’s a great space and a new style of market that draws from community and the arts, rather than just fruit and veg. I really hope it does well.”

Petra’s own street-food odyssey began a little over four years ago, when she hit upon the idea of setting up a mobile chocolate bar in a converted ice-cream van. After buying an old Leyland DAF on eBay, she asked a graffiti-artist friend to design the vehicle’s distinctive livery, involving waves of molten chocolatey loveliness. It has the public flocking wherever she goes and they get even more excited when they see what’s on offer inside. “In winter, people go mad for truffles and hot chocolate with a shot of rum or marshmallows,” says Petra. “In summer, it’s chocolate milkshakes, frozen choc-dipped bananas and brownie fudge sundaes all day long.”

She admits that there was no grand master plan involved in setting up the business, just pure passion. “I didn’t have a strategy,” she confesses. “I just wanted to make good chocolate normal and not turn it into something precious. It was set up from a gut feeling, which I don’t know if I’d recommend, as it’s pretty scary!”

Petra had her initial epiphany in her 20s while working on yachts for the super-rich. “I ran away to sea for four years as a stewardess,” she says. “It was a very old-school 1950s role. I’d arrange flowers, serve cocktails and dinner, as well as look after guests.” Although she wasn’t sure exactly what form her future career would take, she was certain it would involve food.

After a short stint working for The Black Farmer meat brand, she decided she wanted her path to take a sweeter turn. “I’d been to all these countries where they were using chocolate in exciting ways and I decided that London was lacking a bit of edge,” says Petra. “It was all a bit twee. You know, big old truffles and Belgian chocolates.”

Having no formal training, Petra thought it wise to acquire some expert know-how, so she approached master chocolatiers Pierre Marcolini. “I thought, if they’ve got a job for me, then it’s meant to be… and it was!” she says. “I had such an interesting time. I was learning about the science, history and sensual side of chocolate and getting a really good feel for the public’s tastes.”

Armed with this invaluable experience and some well-honed baking skills, Petra took the plunge and Choc Star was born. She even decided to research the nation’s appetite even further by touring Choc Star around Britain. Meeting everyone from country gamekeepers to inner-city cafe owners, she found many were happy to put her up for the night – particularly when she offered to make them a homemade chocolate pudding in exchange for bed and board.

It certainly appears her gut feeling has paid off, as the van’s wares can now be found tantalising our taste-buds across the capital. As well as forthcoming appearances at Clapham’s Venn Street market and at Slow Food on the South Bank, Choc Star is often hired for office visits, corporate events and chocolate tastings. She’s also proving very popular at festivals and weddings. “Some people want us to turn up as a surprise,” she says. “The wedding’s in full swing and then we turn up with the chimes on!”

As Valentine’s Day approaches, I wonder if Petra has any sweet treats planned. “Well, I’m single at the moment, so I’m not really going to be celebrating on my own!” she laughs. “People get excited about chocolate all year round, but last year we did a special couple’s sundae, with two forks, little hearts and extra sauce.”

While she continues to build up the business from her home near Loughborough Junction, Petra is also in the process of setting up a food collective called Eat St. “It’s all about consolidating the small street food culture we have here in Britain,” she tells me. “We want to develop new opportunities for people like myself to be able to operate in public spaces.”

With such commitment to the cause, I imagine it won’t be too long before Petra is back on eBay searching for more vans. “Choc Star is a lovely world to exist in. A chocolate-tinted bubble,” she smiles. “I don’t have to deal with corporate nightmare situations or office politics. People are so amazing when there’s chocolate involved. It’s such a massive passport into people’s hearts and minds.”

Interview with Petra Barran: Chocs Away!

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