Ian Stuart: Wed hot

For most men, a wedding dress is a thing of beauty... but also a complete mystery. A bride can confidently debate for hours on the virtues of ecru over oyster, or the advantages of georgette versus jersey. A typical male, on the other hand, is lost faster than you can say "Chantilly lace".

All of which makes Ian Stuart somewhat unusual - and exactly the kind of fellow a girl might like to have around in the run-up to her wedding day. Four-time winner of Bridal Designer of the Year, Ian can be found any day of the week at his West Dulwich atelier up to his neck in gowns for the world's blushing brides-to-be.

It's safe to say that 2008 was fairly busy - even by Ian's standards. First there was the Special Contribution to the Industry Award, capping his unprecedented four-year run as top bridal designer in the country. Then he appeared on the hit show The Apprentice, where his peerless gowns helped the winning team achieve victory, provoking taskmaster Sir Alan Sugar to name Ian "the jewel in the crown". And the designer unleashed his debut eveningwear collection, a glamorous range of frocks capturing his signature style in a whirl of silk, chiffon and ornate detail.

When I speak to him he's right off a plane from the US, and there's not even a hint of jet lag about him. He's just shown his bridal collection in New York - another first to add to the list of achievements this year has brought. Ian's no stranger to crossing the world on behalf of work; his bridalwear is stocked in 400 stores in nearly 30 countries.

He sounds like the kind of man who was crafting couture from an early age, but he insists that's not the case. "It was quite by accident really," he says.

"I left school with not many qualifications. The only thing I was good at was art and drawing, so I did an art course, which had three different sections: one was graphic design, one was fashion design, one was interior design. I really enjoyed the fashion design, so I basically fell into it after not really knowing what to do or knowing what to be."

"And then as the course developed you obviously studied different areas of fashion. I got more interested in the eveningwear. I'd always liked theatrical stage shows and musicals and historical movies so I really concentrated more on the theatrical side of clothing, rather than navy blue suits and jeanswear and sportswear - I wasn't really into that at all."

It's true that his dresses introduce an element of dramatic fun that's uncommon in the traditional arena of weddings, and this sense of theatre seems to resonate with brides as they stage one of the biggest events of their lives.

"When I was at college I wanted to specialise in making costumes for the theatre, but at that time the work was very sparse. So bridalwear and eveningwear were the closest thing to that that still had a commercial, viable edge to it. I actually did a bridalwear collection for my final degree show. And that was it - for the rest of my life!"

Having been born in Holland and raised in Manchester, Ian worked in London after graduation for various design houses, including Belville Sassoon. (For 50 years this was Britain's foremost couture house, with clients including Princess Michael of Kent, Princess Margaret and Princess Diana, who had over 70 outfits by the label, including her trousseau and going away suit.)

From London he made the leap to New York, returning after nine years to launch his own eponymous range once and for all.

"Five years ago we started up our own independent company, which was great because it meant that we could do exactly the designs that we wanted to do. From the very beginning it's been really successful," he admits.

The company's HQ is in the light-filled Park Hall Estate. "We just saw this amazing space and we had the possibility to create a showroom and warehouse and studio all under one roof," he recalls.

"It's very artsy here. The company next to us makes sets for musicals, there are mad knitwear designers, there's quite a mixture of different things here in this building. It's nice to do quirky projects together, mixing with people that you wouldn't otherwise mix with."

It seems like the designer has truly hit upon a winning formula. "Basically when I was working with other companies you had limitations. You'd show them the lines, and they would want to change things around, make things cheaper," he explains. "Having your own label means that you can make the clothes that you want to make."

And in Ian's fortunate case, not just the designs he wants to make but also ones that women are clamouring to wear.

www.ianstuart-bride.com
www.ianstuart-london.com

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